The 5-6 times it has happened now have been after the car has been running for at least 20 minutes. mean that the IAC is causing it. I've changed all the The problem I believe this is creating is after I start vehicle (and its still in park), the IAC drops down to my hold percentage of 10% (since throttle % is not 0) before engine is warm and therefore causing the engine to stall out. But after sitting static idling for a little bit, the IAC goes to 100% & stays there. !I called Holley today, and before I could even described the symptoms the When I start the motor I have to push on the accelerator pedal for the motor to start. First, recognize that the amount below your target where you set the hard idle will be different on different engines. Is this normal ? Holley will take a look and tell you you have RFI and wish you good luck in finding it. Sniper EFI Idle Tuning. Those don't impact the way the engine runs and can cause the whistle sound you describe. Make sure that your blanking level is _below_ that (being careful not to find yourself in the situation I describe above.) So try changing your IAC hold value slightly:Tuning : Advanced : Adv. Any ideas here? If you suspect this then try to find a situation where this occurs where you can safely check the secondary throttle shaft and see if i's slightly open. :-). The progressive link can be a great solution on standard (non-Stealth) throttle bodies but I would install this LAST after everything else is working perfectly. Cracked casing from a side cover screw being installed crossed threaded. Even though the Sniper's fuel map is programmed to provide the correct amount of fuel via injectors spraying at 60 PSI, if the pressure is jacked up to 90 PSI the wideband sees that you are rich and faster than you can even detect it audibly lowers the duty cycle to inject the correct amount of fuel. That way you can get into that part of the table that needs tuning, and you can watch your learn numbers grow. MAP Sensor. idle at 1100 on the "stock" file it's better with street strip.The IAC counts will be at zero. When this happens, it is impossible to convince the Sniper ECU to allow the RPM to drop below a set RPM--regardless of what the target idle speed setting is. If I read it correctly, the solution from the other thread seemed to fix a constant 300 or so RPM increase. Robust, feature-rich multi-port EFI systems offer easy plug-and-play late-model V8 engine swaps. We are using Target AFR of 9.0: 1, Fuel Base approximately 40% higher. As I said I didn't buy from you so you don't owe me anything. Hello, Chris, thanks for the help.I have not installed the software yet, and I'm having trouble with two cars. We're having trouble with a Ford Maverick 302 V8, using ethanol. You might have a bad O2 sensor, really bad exhaust leak or a problem with the ECU. I pulled over and turned the car off and then back on. This page was generated at 12:25 AM. It only lowers to 2-6% when I take my foot off the gas. On a cold start it will idle at 750 everytime, But if its hot start it will jump upto 1600rpm for 2 seconds then come back to 750. I chased that gremlin for about three weeks and was convinced I had a bad throttle cable. Data logs show no EMI/RFI. Intermittent stalling usually points to radio frequency or electro-magnetic intereference (RFI/EMI). I think you will find that it will learn its way through this. These will fix the noise but if the performance is suffering then likely you won't see any difference since it is not likely to be related to this sound. Fought a high idle issue until I changed your idle speed curve fix along with dropping the IAC hold to 10%. My guess is a faulty IAC since it is intermittent and I have not done any setup changes. Or is there something else I should I cut and heat-shrink wrapped the 5V wire and then ran both the signal and ground wires all the way back to the transmission controller. Changing the rpm curve and target rpm has no effect. When I put it in park the idle RPM was 2100-2200 each time. The Fuel Base map is perfect, the car works well, runs well, running through the streets, the car is great. If your TPS has snuck up to 2% then your IAC will be at the hold position, which by default is 30%. If it creates an issue (not normally the case) then you'll know. Also ensure the TPS Position returns to zero at idle, & the IAC Hold Position isn't setup too high. And so glad you guys are enjoying the Sniper EFI system. = 2.34 I'm also having a high idle problem but its different. (It should be at or near 60 PSI at idle. I went on the good ole interweb and found your website which was VERY helpful! Also if I give it a EFI Systems based on Holley's world-class Dominator and HP ECU's. The first place my eyes go when there is any issue with the idle is to the TPS value. Once it decides to come back down, it does so with no issue. Switch power to the Sniper on and crank the engine. have the system learn the higher speeds? and if you do run into any problems then, yes, the plethora of tunability adjustments available through either the handheld or the Sniper Software will certainly be enough to get you right where you need to be! IAC looks good once it finally s fires. Thanks for any info./insight you can provide, Mark. If the issue persists, you may need to replace the IAC. If you complete the process and find that the IAC is less than 2% at idle, repeat the process and use the set screw to make the RPM about 60 RPM below the target. Start engine let it warm up to 160, learn mode is learning. no timing control. If I were there in person I would test the function of the IAC (see this article.) The engine ran so good, I would have never suspected the Fuel Pressure to be an That is the IAC hold position. is train the system or there is actually something wrong.I do love the system at Nothing against Holley's method but I need to keep things simple and I do that by eliminating the effect of the IAC entirely while getting the idle speed adjusted. Next, clean the IAC and all related parts with brake cleaner. It is how the engineers allow you to clear a flood condition when you detect it. sniper Installation If you're installing a Sniper EFI system and almost ready to crank it over for the first time, this is the video for you! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2JpHlS1ymBc, If this is your first visit, be sure to There are six different acceleration enrichment tables that you can tweak and that may be the way to go. (Grease can sometimes do the same thing as a more permanent gasket sealer without making the removal of the air cleaner such a pain.). Even at 0% it's sucking a bunch of air through the IAC port. That disappears as soon as the throttle is pressed and then you immediately revert to your timing table.You can certainly use the compressor to initate the IAC Kick, but remember that this is just a temporary idle boost to ensure that the engine doesn't die when the AC is first turned on. The Sniper will be controlling the timing so it will be based on a multitude of factors. I've made all the adjustments, all the settings, and the IAC issue is driving me crazy. idle counts from 0. Do you have any clue? It does this with the engine off. I have a 406SBC that does most everything right with this sniper setup. Supports up to 650hp with Four 100 Lb/Hr Injectors! The noise changes sound with the throttle position. I have tried your 10-step idle adjust and ive adjusted the idle curve. I'm running a 408 sbc. Yes its at 95lbs, needless to say he promised a new regulator would be in the Throttle Tip-In tuning can be a bit of a challenge but I'm confident you can get this resolved, Mike.Let me start by saying that unless you've really done a lot of driving on the system in some useful learning situations then I would set this issue aside and not even think about it. Strangely, what I've seen is that it idles too lean as the injectors are effectively shut off.Thanks again for the follow-up and glad to hear that everything is working well now. If I go any more it will ping. If I put the truck in neutral the TPMS will raise all the way up over 2000. I, too, wish you'd bought your Sniper from us! In the time it takes to add your email address you can be at the top of the heap for getting the latest information from our authority. This is extremely unreliable afrer warm. If you are using your Sniper EFI System to control timing, navigate to Tuning > Advanced > Advanced Idle > Idle Spark and ensure that the Idle Spark Enabled is set to Disabled. Capability Range: Advanced After doing TPS reset it starts fine but when you give it some gas it hangs at 1500 and will not return to idle. check out the. The second thing to realize is that even after you get it just right, you need to keep an eye on the IAC number and reset the idle if it gets outside the 2-8% range when idling when warm. back upthe RPMs shoot up to anywhere between 1500 and 2000 and they will not get The throttle blade adjustment is at 2-6% at hot idle, and with warm engine 185F. carburetor setup, but it does blow when I can't jump on the highway like I use I've not heard of any others with this exact issue so I don't think it is a common problem. When the system is up and running the fuel pressure regulator inside the Sniper is making a rattling sound like a shaking a paint can. When I see that your TPS is 1%, that tells me that you may have an RFI problem. Target AFR at idle is 13.8%. I've increased the IAC rampdown time to 8 seconds to try to combat this, but wondering if it will correct itself over time or if I need to possibly replace this TP sensor. Once we recognize that, the next step is to narrow down all possible sources of additional air until we discover the cause.Start by keeping an eye on your IAC number. 680-700.I can't find any reason other than it looses where it is in the firmware with 400 engine, C6 3 speed automatic, with standard canister coil for ignition, and It will need to see it again and again. Thank you for this guide on setting IAC. In the context of the Sniper the AFR that is being displayed is the AFR of ethanol-free gasoline based on the lambda that is being read by the AFR. Cheers Darren. What I would recommend is getting somewhere that you can spend a significant amount of time doing starts. I would only play with this if you are finding that the other adjustments I suggested aren't working. I would not expect that an electric fan would create a noticeable load on the engine but if it did then you'd want to set the idle screw when the fan was not running. Sorry for all the questions, new to the efi world. The TPS will go red with a -15 and the AFR reads heating for a split second, then the idle kicks up to 2000RPM. I put it in neutral and the idle RPM had increased to 2100-2200. would correct it (as it has for a multitude of other drive-ability issues) but this one little glitch seems out of it's range. SNIPER EFI TO HOLLEY DUAL SYNC HARNESS Part# 558-493 $34.44 Qty: Add To Cart Idle Air Control Motor Replacement Idle Air Control (IAC) Motor for Sniper EFI TBI Systems, Sniper 90/92/102mm Throttle Bodies, Terminator TBI, Avenger 4bbl TBI, HP 4bbl TBI, Commander 950 & Digital Pro-Jection Systems Part# 543-105 $71.72 Qty: Add To Cart Shut it off and immediately restarted and idle was now 880 with IAC at 8.If this is a vacuum leak I can't figure out what would cause it to go away immediately after shutting down the car and restarting. Should i adjust idle screw with the fans already on? Both answers you've received greatly oversimplify the truth in favor of the answerer. I managed to get the IAC down to around 0% - 8%is this good? Remove the tape from the IAC breather hole and restart the engine. I also raised idle at Park a bit with the idle screw. I'll give the ". Maybe give it a half-turn before you start it and then start and tweak. I'm wonder if the iac can cause this. If I try and get the 2-10% i get all the way up to 1200 rpm. I did notice that when I thought I had it set All in all, considering the system has been installed for less than 2 hours drive time we're BLOWN AWAY at how quickly it is "learning" this engine. Yes it is controlling the timing and I had issues at first and it controlled the idle just fine. I have certainly seen this before on other fuel injected vehicles when hot. I was shocked to see it at 95lbs!! Get On The List for Emails Straight From Our Pro? Software: Idle > IAC Settings > Idle Spark, Handheld: Tuning > Advanced > Advanced Idle > Idle Spark, After completing this 10-step process, if the temperature displayed on the handheld is still above 160 degrees the engine should go right to it's target. Thanks again for your insights! I recently bought the car with the EFI system on it. First--besides the fact that it's not represented on the display, it is not even a parameter that you can datalog. I've been trying to correct that 1% small issue/annoyance. Thanks. Across the board, all of our customers say how impressed they were that it started and ran right out of the box just by following the simple installation instructions. Running a bbc with coil - my timing is perfect. Or, at least, it should. If your fuel pressure regulator has failed (and they often fail by blocking return fuel and maxing your fuel pressure) then it could lead to rich idle, particularly until your engine gets up to temp. That, I am afraid, is going to involve a little bit of luck if you don't want to create a 250 MB data log. Then it changes and will not idle down, the handheld will display 0% IAC but you can see and feel that the IAC valve is more like 100%. Thanks. I have been able to get it pretty Really appreciate the amount of learning im getting off here. Given the circumstances I would say that it is either the IAC motor itself or RFI but you seem to have ruled both of those out. When I drive with warm engine the IAC is at 30% when pushing gas, but shouldn't it be at 0%? Im thinking a faulty TPS. I'm so glad you found this helpful--that makes my day!Don't get too concerned about the specific learn percentage. With an assistant pressing the accelerator, you need to make sure that when the accelerator is pressed to WOT that the throttle blades are fully opened, and when accelerator is lifted the linkage is fully at rest against the idle speed screw. I started with right after I first adjusted for 2% IAC and took pics about every 30 seconds over about 2 minutes. At that point, with 90 PSI of fuel, the ECU can't turn the duty cycle down low enough to idle properly. This minimizes installation time and packages really well on a diverse group of engine applications. Since the shield was put on, not a single problem, not one. When I shut it off then start it But after sitting static idling for a little bit, the IAC goes to 100% & stays there. I never had a problem with this. That could be a problem with the TPS or it could be some sort of throttle linkage issue. I would start by datalogging the situation and seeing exactly what your learn table looks like in the area immediately around the tip-in. A problem since day 1 - YouTube Leave a comment if you've had this issue and how you resolved. However, I did have another fellow who contacted me that claims he went through three units before he could get one that would talk between the ECU and the Monitor. Holley Sniper IAC Surging???? Resistance results in heat and heat results in more resistance. Fortunately, Holley has another product that can solve that: Hydramat.. Hydramat is not inexpensive but you won't believe what it can do. If I keep the rpm's up it does fine but my clutch can't keep up with this for long.Also when I cover the IAC port the engine dies. What could be the cause? Yes, the sound coming out of your Sniper throttle body is a pulsation from the fuel pump that is pulsing the mechanical fuel pressure regulator. You could install the Holley Dual-Sync Distributor and let the Sniper control your timing. Bolt-on carburetor style EFI for your classic car or truck. And if you're going to go this route I'd recommend that you switch from "Simple" (3 A/F targets, one each for Idle, Cruise, and WOT) and go to the 2-D Table Laptop Access Even though you think your timing is perfect I'd suggest you try cranking about 5-10 degrees of advance into the distributor and just see if that doesn't work better for you.Remember this: adjustable timing pointers go out of adjustment and harmonic balancers slip. Hopefully replacing the pump again will resolve both issuesWhoa. It would be possible to set up a 1D or 2D table and do something like this, so if you've gotten into these advanced setups then that would be another thing to check.If neither of these work then I'd recommend that you do a data log of the engine idling as the temperature is reaching and then exceeding 200 degrees. I also noted that after some time, I could change those values as I saw fit. Thank you. Though it started and ran good, it was dumping fuel and would not lean out to AFR set points. It is made by one of the biggest names in fuel filters and sold under the Parts Master label so it is quality and great price in one. Bolt on 4150 Flange Carburetor Replacement. Holley Sniper IAC Problem 04-26-2018, 11:30 AM Hello. Then it will ramp down to 1200 but will not return to idle. If you drop it too far the engine will stumble or stall when coming off the throttle with the car out of gear, so you'll know when you've gone too far. Start with the most gradual throttle input you need to launch well, then slightly increase until you feel some stumble. We have shipped quite a few of these to customers in Australia and New Zealand so I know that there is becoming a good following there!We recommend this Inline 10-micron fuel filter to prevent problems like that. have noticed on the hand held is that Air/fuel Ratio rises to 20 +/- A/F and the Then Friday night as I was driving home, the car started acting up. The person I bought it from said he never could get it to run for more than a few seconds. I very pleased with the performance, it is a huge improvement from the 800CFM carb I had on this motor. The link above includes the option to buy a -6 AN Idles ok, runs great cruising, but from a stand still or downshifting and making a turn, when I get back into it, it wants to fall on its face. Tps is saying 26% when it at idle. It started right up and we did your idle control fix and all is good at idle. Holley EFI Electronic Fuel Pressure GaugeI think its a little ridiculous that I cant see fuel pressure on the display even though its measuring it but whatever. It is working fine when you restart the car, controlling idle perfectly at 8 steps open so it is unlikely to fail when the car warms up--or correct itself instantly when you restart it..So, if you don't have any vacuum leak, and the throttle plates are fully closed, the only thing I can guess is something is causing your ignition timing to change. One of the best Ive seen so far. After 50 on the throttle position I'm not sure if the whistle goes away or you just can't here it anymore. Those little 1/8 NPT gauges are pretty inexpensive and generally pretty easy to find locally.If you confirm that the pressure is indeed 90 PSI you could pull the fuel pressure regulator apart and check it. Any suggestions would be appreciated. The solution is to either lower the IAC hold position or increase the RPM above idle to start ramp (default is 1000 RPM). If I rev the engine a couple times in neutral it will finally return to idle & usually will not do it again for the rest of my trip. Thanks for any help. It then idles up from 750 to 1100. My issue is that when Im in stop and go traffic, I can let off the clutch and the engine revs and doesnt quite want to come back to idle. After only running for about 15 minutes or so the system starts to fail stalling the motor. I straightened that out, got it running and that's where it goes downhill. However based on your reply I connected the Fuel Pressure gauge and I have heard some guys complain that the idle is too good and they can't hear their cam anymore I'm kind of like that. Going lower with the blanking might pay dividends, but there is so little room below 7/8 that you will quickly be in a range where every tiny variation in the TPS or MAP is throwing extra fuel into the engine. Jump on board now! Take a drive and stop somewhere for 30 minutes, CTS is 170 when engine was shutoff. If there is an issue with using the Sniper EFI TPS signal, is there a remote TPS or an adaptor for the Sniper EFI that allows the TPS signal to be accessed for the transmission. The AFR was pretty consistent around 13. Initial Baseline Idle Speed Screw Setting, http://forums.holley.com/showthread.neral-IAC-Info, http://documents.holley.com/199r11031r.pdf, https://forums.holley.com/showthread-Idle-Solution, If this is your first visit, be sure to Do you have a PCV on the engine? The weather in Ct has finally improved and I have put about 60 miles on the car with the Sniper system. Unfortunately I did not buy my sniper efi from you. I'll bet you find that you can get it working great without any manual tuning. Consider adding fuel in the AE vs TPS and/or AE vs MAP ROC tables in the area where the stumble is occuring.Since this is happening at such low TPS levels it is possible that your engine would prefer a lower (richer) target AFR number at idle. Hello Chris. such high fuel pressure. WIthout knowing quite a bit more it will be more than challenging for you to identify the problem and solve it.Fortunately, Holley provides their amazing Sniper Software. Your task will be to find that. any ideas? The Sniper ECU can use the timing to help maintain the idle speed and that will definitely be useful in that transition from Park/Neutral to Drive.If you don't have ECU-controlled timing, or if you do and it's not fully compensating, it may be necessary to increase your target idle slightly. I did read some comments on regulator issues is there a way to check it for an issue ? If no air is passing (and the idle doesn't drop) then your IAC is working. The Tech Tips and discussions are also great! It's pretty hard to get the header tubes glowing at idle with a lean AFR. Price Point: $, Advanced throttle body injection systems capable of transmission control and more. Target AFR, A / F = 13.5 After pumping the pedal a few times at different times it dropped to zero and started to work. And the rather cavalier "Absolutely!" And your understanding of how the throttle position affects idle is exactly correct. Maybe here will work better ?Sniper High Fuel PSIMy fuel psi is over 90 according to a brand new Auto Meter pro mechanical gauge tied in at the inlet to the Sniper using an AN adapter.I did the search function on here and found a similar high PSI issue that was fixed by clearing the return line.I have checked the return line hose for kinks and have removed it and blew thru it without any back pressure. Generally, one of two things: a stuck throttle or noise on the TPS signal. And Earl's makes a fantastic little 100 PSI gauge. This is normally used as an A/C idle-up circuit. applies here because it is so important to realize that just because the IAC Cycle the ignition as instructed by the handheld and then navigate to the distributor setup screen. Look over all of your vacuum lines and fittings. In that case, and if you have an EGR valve, I might be suspicious of something going on there. Chris's Idle Speed Adjustment Instructions*: *Note: If you are using your Sniper to control ignition timing then I recommend that before you start this process you disable idle spark control If you are trying to do this while the ECU is simultaneously trying to bring your idle under control by adjusting the advance it is going to be counter-productive. Drop the IAC parked position a bit at each temperature point and sort of back into the solution. Thanks for the information you have provided on this site. Why is this? I have turned ignition off turned screw in 2 turns and turned ignition back on and tps is at 1-2% not sure whats going on. But he kept having problems so eventually he did a complete check and then he found the problem. Though they both are indications of the amount of opening through the throttle body, the TPS is the throttle opening percentage and the IAC number tells us how far the IAC stepper motor is opening the bypass air circuit.If I understand you correctly you are saying that the TPS reads somewhat normally (traveling from 9% to 100% or so) but that when you cycle the key it once again starts at 9%. Then, the next time I cranked it, the idle went high and won't come down!" These aren't generic newsletters either but instead personalized emails. Turned it off and on again. To get it to idle the tps is at 2-3-4% even with linkage disconnected and a return spring installed. ChrisI finally got everything resolved. If you get into the practice of hearing all three of these sounds you will know if you have a problem even before you turn the key to crank. Should it not do the opposite and do this on a cold start not warm. This question is really outside both the scope of what we try to discuss in the comments section as well as the overall subject of this article. Some have suggested the gasket might cause it but I've never heard of anyone fixing the whistle by adjusting the gasket (and many have tried.
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